Teufelsberg Adventure: Journey to an Abandoned Military Base

Wild Ride

The best way to travel to Teufelsberg is via rentable scooters scattered throughout the city. This method of transportation greatly enhances the experience because Berlin is perfectly built for it. Scooters are much cheaper and more fun than taxis. Until the recent advancements in technology, this form of technology wasn’t even available.

Also, they are fun as hell, and the adventure just wouldn’t be the same without them.

While riding on a scooter, you’ll travel through much of Berlin and soak in the atmosphere, culture, and way of life. Naturally, this immersive experience is phenomenal. Despite traveling in mostly a straight line, you’ll pass through major attractions such as the Berlin Cathedral, Brandenburg Gate, and the Victory Column, among others.

Berlin Cathedral

My journey to Teufelsberg started at one of the most recognizable sites in Berlin: the Berlin Cathedral. Located on Museum Island, this striking architectural masterpiece features a rich history, numerous elaborate exhibits, and an amazing panoramic view of the city.

To be honest, when I first arrived in Berlin, I had no plans whatsoever. I simply saw the cathedral in the distance and said, “Ohhh shit. Look at that thing. Let’s start there!”

Brandenburg Gate

After weaving between traffic and the designated bike/scooter lanes, I arrived at the Brandenburg Gate.

As one of the best-known landmarks in Germany, it features elegant 18^th century neoclassical architecture. At the gate’s summit is Quadriga—a chariot drawn by four horses. Victoria (the goddess of Victory) commands the chariot.

Throughout history, it has been a symbol of division, unity, peace, and the turbulent history of Europe and Germany. It is a major historical site (Napoleon even stole the statue of Quadriga once) and a majestic attraction.

The area is crowded at times, but I found the crowds necessary to the festive atmosphere (although the photobombing was painful). And although I arrived during the day, I returned at night because the lights made everything so much better.

Moment of Peace

After the Victory Column, as I moved through the final stretch of road toward Teufelsberg, I found the missing component of an immersive Berlin experience: a gaze into a Berliner’s life.

I saw people sitting and laughing in small cafes. I returned passing smiles and waves. I even had conversations with some locals.

Central Berlin was too crowded, too overwhelming, too busy. No one had the time to say hi or even offer a passing glance. Everyone was always on the move. Here, past Tiergarten, the pace of life slowed. Away from the bustle of the city center, away from the imposing landmarks and attractions, away from the tourist crowds, I found a peaceful and simple way of life.

The architecture, while still stunning, was simpler and smaller. And there was much less to see here, so I could slow down and just enjoy the moment. I was no longer frantically pacing around trying to see as much as possible. There was no long checklist. There was only one item on this list: enjoy the moment and smell the roses.

As the vast forest came into view, I knew I was approaching Teufelsberg.

Teufelsberg

Teufelsberg had a dedicated parking lot. If you wish, you can walk the relatively straight-forward path from the lot.

However, I decided to take the more scenic route by hiking through the forest. Since I did not want someone else to take the scooter, placing it far away from the parking lot, at the base of the forest, was a perfect idea.

The hike was effortless and tranquil. The only objective was to hike to the top of the hill. The trail was beautiful, but the numerous twists and turns could lead to confusion if you do not pay attention.

I arrived at a massive compound. There were no clear instructions where to go, only a slightly shady looking sign—the kind in horror movies that lead you to your death.

“Hmm. Eingang…entrance.” I followed the arrow. “God, I hope nothing bad hap—oh shit!”

A rustling in the bushes startled me. In the distance, a wild boar was foraging for food.

I admired the boar for several minutes. It looked up and locked its gaze with mine.

“Don’t try and get cute with me,” I said. “Come this way and I will kick you in the wienerschnitzel.”

The boar scurried away.

I traced the perimeter and found the entrance.

As I surveyed the land, I found dilapidated structures and abandoned buildings.

Everywhere I looked, graffiti-covered nearly every surface—even the cars. Perhaps this was why they fenced off the compound.

The atmosphere felt ominous, and the howling wind put me on full alert. There was just something inherently unnerving about exploring any abandoned area.

“God, I hope some weird science experiment doesn’t come out of nowhere.”

Teufelsberg’s most distinguishing feature—the radomes—were in tatters. They were literally just shells of their former selves.

I explored the desolate compound for another hour. The place resembled a small town within the heart of nature, and the plants effortlessly blended with the structures. I was alone, but I did not feel lonely. It just felt right.

I sat down on a bench and ate my energy bar. It was the peaceful end to an incredible adventure through Berlin. The journey back to central Berlin was equally incredible. I had the time of my life.